Here's the mods that I made to my Astra 1.3 engine. They should apply equally to the Nova 1.3, although I've never looked at one, and the Cavalier 1.3 (but that's a bit heavy). There are some good books that cover all of this.

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Action Rolling road
Why? A visit to a rolling road allows you to check whether you've really acheived anything. Will allow re calibration of Carburettor for correct A/F ratio. Will allow you to get optimum results from your modifications.
Rough cost / sources I've used the Powerstation in Cheltenham, Gloucestershire. It costs about £35 for a 25 minute power run. It'll show you wheel power, wheel drag, engine power and corrected torque versus speed for wide open throttle. More about this in the future.
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Modification K&N air filter
Why it works Improves air flow to the engine. The stock filter is an obvious restriction when compared to a K&N biscuit tin filter.
Doing it Easy - bolt on replacement uses same studs as original. Need to make a hole for the engine breather pipe - this could take 3 minutes with the right hole cutter, or 15 with a large drill and then round file.
Rough cost / sources £40. Halfords part stores etc
Rolling road results More torque, no change in peak power See filter test results.
First impressions / was it worth it? Induction noise at wide open throttle - good. No effect on top speed. Low speed running seemed better, throttle more responsive. Definitely worth it for £40.
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Modification Free flowing exhaust Exhaust system on next car.
Why it works Allows greater air flow through engine by reducing resistance of exhaust system. Engine now has to do less pumping work to push the exhaust gasses out.
Doing it An evening's work if you have a set of ramps, a jack and axle stands. Can be fiddle getting old system apart. Might need to hacksaw some sections down. Hard work lying under car lining everything up. Will get covered in crap and strained neck. I had to have a second go at lining the pipes up, as the first attempt rattled against the suspension arm when going over bumps.See also.
Rough cost / sources I used a Peco (Big Bore2) system that Halfords supplied on 5 days delivery. It cost £60 for the centre section and £60 for the rear.
Rolling road results No change at low revs, helped peak power up to 84BHP. Done same time as carburettor
First impressions / was it worth it? First impression was dissapointing. Seemed very loud with no noticeable change in top speed. It soon quietened down as it filled with crud. Then I noticed that driveability had vastly improved. You could now pull up hills in 5th gear when doing 30mph...almost.

Looks reasonably mean, well better than a jubilee clip alloy exhaust end.

Sounds quite nice I suppose. Correction, sounds ace.

Afte a few weeks the novelty of a noisy exhaust wore off. The performance gain is a bit too marginal to justify excessive noise.

Helps high rev performance.

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Modification Weber carburettor 32/34 DMTL. (Twin choke,but not Twin 40's).
Why it works Considered to be superior to Pierburg 3E and definitely better than Varijet. Much easier and convenient to tune.
Doing it Weber carb with K&N filter. Reasonably easy - relaxed 3 hours. Weber supply a kit containing all of the necessary brackets,clips, fuel pipe etc. K&N make filter to fit directly (will need 4 screws to fit it on). Only fiddle is feeding choke cable through bulkhead. Standard filter will nead some reshaping so that it doesn't touch the bonnet.

After fitting it will be necessary to have a tuner check whether the carb is delivering the correct amount of fuel over the operating range. This is done by running the engine on a rolling road. The tuner might change the jets to ones with larger or smaller holes in them. They usually carry a stock of jets for this purpose.
Rough cost / sources About £195 list price (not inc Vat). Hoopers of Bristol did it for £195 inc Vat. Can buy reconditioned for half that. Also found one it scrap yard on Cavalier 1.3. Weber, Carburettor hospital.
Rolling road results Probably no effect on peak power. Might help responsivness.
First impressions / was it worth it?

First impression dissapointing. Made little difference to acceleration. Throttle response better.

As second throat opens there is a really satisfying induction growl.

Long term assesment is that it is worth it. The throttle response and driveability are improved. Just don't expect it to increase the power radically.

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Modification PMC Supaflow head.
Why it works Allows more flow to combustion chambers.
Doing it Took me about 8 hours (did cam at same time & piston de coke). Pictures
Rough cost / sources £350 from PMC.
Rolling road results Cams changed at same time so can't tell individual effect.
First impressions / was it worth it? Car still not fast by most standards. But, the 1st gear acceleration is great once the revs get past about 3000. Top speed noticeably higher.
Seems more responsive.
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Modification Dr Schrick fast road camshaft.
Why it works Higher lift and duration means valves open more and for longer. This helps high rev power, but can reduce torque at low revs.
Doing it Took me about 8 hours (did cylinder head at same time & piston de coke). Pictures
Pretty easy job really if you don't mind taking top of engine apart.
The Hayne's manual gives detailed instructions about running in the cams, and various people will give you dire warnings about the effects of not using special cam lube. I doused the cams in new engine oil (expensive stuff) and then topped that up with a load of molyslip oil additive (Molybdenum Disulphide). When I phoned up PMC they said that this was OK anyway.
When reassambling the engine, I took the No1 plug out so that I could find TDC (top dead centre). This is a good idea, because if any of the timing marks are out you could reassamble with the cam shaft one tooth out of position. If you do this then the engine will not run very well and acceleration will be pants.
Rough cost / sources £150 from PMC.
Rolling road results Rise in power as expected.
First impressions / was it worth it? Car still not fast by most standards. But, the 1st gear acceleration is great once the revs get past about 3000. Top speed noticeably higher.
Seems more responsive.
Af first idle was lumpy and pulling away took a bit of practice. This was sorted when a larger idle jet was put in by the rolling road tuners. After that, totally driveable.
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  • Modification PMC 4 branch exhaust manifold.
    Why it works Less flow resistance (less bends than cast manifold).
    Less mixing from 2&3 cylinders.
    Doing it Pictures
    The manifold finally arrived about 4 weeks after I expected it. This was because firstly they sent a Nova jobby. Then the supplier had a problem with their jig etc etc.
    Fitting is a simple job - jack up the front of the car, undo some nuts, pull out the old mess and put new manifold in. Took me a bit of time because the studs had become bolts due to rust. All was going fine until I offered up the manifold - it didn't fit. It was graunching on the mounting studs. Never before has such a simple job brought so much pain on me. Luckily I sussed out what had happened. The mounting flange had been machined flat after the manifold was welded together. A load of burred edges had made the mounting holes seem smaller than they were. Five minutes with a small file and it fitted. It was actually quite a fiddle doing up the mounting nuts because of all the pipes being in the way. I recommend that you buy some ratchet spanners or boredom will soon set in.
    Rough cost / sources £99 from PMC.
    Rolling road results Very disappointing.
    First impressions / was it worth it? The noise situation has changed - more from the front, less from the rear.
    Carburettor tuning needed - the top speed and acceleration are both down. I've now got loads of noise and no acceleration. A better idea.

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    Modification Gas filled dampers.
    Why it works Makes suspension a bit stiffer. Reduces body roll as you go round corners.
    Doing it See lowering section. Rear shocks are reasonably easy. Front ones require a coil spring compressor or else you will risk shooting yourself with the nut that holds the spring down. Need to separate ball joints and take drive shaft nut off, and brake caliper. Bit of a fiddle if you've never taken it apart before. Also main nut that holds cartridge in can seize. I drilled one in half to get it out. Buy a huge can of WD 40, ball joint separator tool (both big fork and a bolt operated one are useful), coil spring compressor.
    Rough cost / sources Cheap - I can't remember the price but all four were cheap say £15 or £20 each. Came from Halfords parts store.
    First impressions / was it worth it?

    First impression was that the ride was too hard - every bump showed up. After a few days this got better.

    Handling improved by a massive amount. Whereas before the car would wallow round corners you could now enjoy feeling the wheel go light. Hard to tell whether this was just because they were new though.

    Really definitely worth it.

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    Modification Lowering kit. Lowering kit
    Why it works Should reduce body roll on corners, stiffen up handling. Will make car look better.
    Doing it Click here for the story. Was quite easy in my case because I'd already fitted new dampers a few months earlier so everything came apart easily.
    Rough cost / sources £200 from Auto Sport.
    First impressions / was it worth it?

    This did not make a radical difference. The car felt different but strangeley familiar. Mainly it didn't roll around as much as before. The ride wasn't ruined either. Took a few days to realise full impact - cornering was definitely better and the car felt more firm and together. After a few days it was apparent that this kit was pretty excellent for the price.

    Just uprating the dampers is therefore a good half way step. Lowering will complete the job and make it look better. Bear in mind that I used a no-name budget kit - you might get radical results with something more expensive.

    Steering still has a bit of vagueness - guess that replacing the bushes will help out. Beyond that it's probably just the limitations of the Astra set up.

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    Modification Replacement of bushes, ball joints and track rod ends.
    Why it works Should eliminate any vagueness in steering.
    Doing it Already done track rod ends and ball joints. Pretty much as Haynes manual tells it.
    Rough cost / sources Can't remember.
    First impressions / was it worth it? Doing track rod ends and ball joints made no noticable difference. My major complaint was the way the car pulled sideways when going over the centre line of a cambered road. Learnt to live with it. Look forward to seeing effect of replacing rubber bushes.
    If the track rod ends wear the steering will go loose - as happened in my previous Escort.
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    Modification Steering damper.
    Why it works I put one in out of a GTE. I hoped it would help absorb large shocks, but I'm not sure whether it does anything. I've since learnt that it is meant to smooth out any torque-steer. Not much chance of that in the 1.3.
    Doing it Easy job. It's an add on part that will fit any model.
    Rough cost / sources £5 from scrappers.
    First impressions / was it worth it? Didn't seem to make any difference.
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    Modification Braided brake hoses.
    Why it works These expand less than old rubber pipes. Should therefore make brakes feel firmer.
    Doing it A simple job in theory that was a bit of a neck ache special. Follow story here.
    Rough cost / sources £40 from Auto Sport.
    First impressions / was it worth it?

    Hard to tell as new pads aren't bedded in yet. Does feel a bit better than it was though. The effect of this would always be a bit marginal unless the pipes were really shot before.

    The braking improvement is quite subtle. It's most noticeable when doing a long slow down on a dual carriageway approaching a roundabout - you don't need to keep increasing the pressure with time, it just holds on in a constant manner.

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    Modification Tacho instrument panel.
    Why it works Basic 1.3 models only have a speedo. Useful to know the engine rpm.
    Plus, you can't redline without a tacho.
    Doing it

    The non digital instrument panels are interchangeable - no additional wiring needed. Few screws need to be undone - look in Haynes manual for details. Handy hint - plug all of the wires back in afterwards or your radio might not work.

    You can set the mileometer to match the one you've taken out. This involves pulling a pin out with a pair of pliers. Five blue gears will then fall out. You can now set the mileage to whatever you want. Then carefully reassamble the gears. Winding in a lower value is not clever since when you sell the car you'll have a load of MOTs with the correct mileage on, and besides at this age mileage should make little difference.

    I checked that the speedo calibration was about right by going down the motorway at 120Kmph - the KM markers should come round every 30 seconds then.

    Rough cost / sources Scrapyard - look in SRi's and GL's. £20.
    First impressions / was it worth it? Yep. You now have two needles to wind up.
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    What I've learnt

    Chances are that you want to modify your engine for more power. You can certainly get 10 or 20% more power with a bit of effort and money (work on £40 per HP for DIY jobs on a 1.3). To get this power you'll need to wind the revs right up. What you won't get is much more torque in the low-mid range engine speeds. To get better mid range torque you really need a bigger engine (peak torque is roughly speaking proportional to engine capacity). Have a look at Astra engine data.

    For a car to have good acceleration it needs decent torque across it's operating range. Do not be blinded by large BHP figures per se. It is easy to tune an engine for large BHP by increasing the high speed torque but at the same time losing mid range torque. Therefore it is possible for a 100BHP 1.3 engine to be better than a 130BHP 1.3. Here better means faster away from the lights and more driveable at low revs.

    The standard car has been designed to satisfy a number of requirements. In power tuning you might lose out in a few areas such as:

    Fuel economy
    Comfort
    Driveability under range of speeds and loads
    Life of engine

    Rally Novas have been tuned up to 120-130BHP. It's not advisable to do the same with a road car - you'll want to do less maintenance than a rally team, get more mpg and might want to hear your ICE above the engine noise. The cost of achieving these sort of power figures would make buying a larger engined car attractive.

    One thing that might trouble you is the chance of wrecking an engine by tuning it up. The good news here is that manufacturers will design an engine with a safety margin. A safe limit is +25%. In the Vauxhall 1.3's case the margin must be decent. Look in any car park or city street and you will see stacks of Astras and Novas. They can easily do 200,000 miles - they just tend to rust away before that.If your engine's in reasonable condition then don't worry about a bit of tuning. The scrap yards are full of spares - get on with it.

    A further point to remember is that manufacturers will tune an engine to a marketing power figure. Introductory 1.4i engines will be tuned for 75BHP say, whilst the more expensive 1.6LXi will be 95BHP. The 1.8GLi will want to be 115HP. It is not in the car company's interest to tune the 1.4 into 1.6 terrority. They can charge a premium for larger engines. This is good news for the home tuner. There's potential locked away in the engine which you can release by spending some money.

    It pays to be realistic about tuning. You can get reasonable results if you spend a few hundred pounds or maybe just into the second thousand. After that the cost per Lb Ft or BHP will rise and rise. You could make a 1.0 Micra engine pump out 80BHP say, but for what it'd cost you could buy a complete Peugot 309 GTi and a Citroen ZX Volcane, or something a bit newer. Race and rally teams can afford to go to extreme lengths. If you want power always start with the largest engine you can lay your hands on. If you want fun tune what you've got.

    Here's some rolling road results for Novas.

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    What I'll do differently next time

    Look here for now


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